Monday, September 18, 2006

ups and downs, literally and figuratively

Up and down No.1 - Hike to Laguna Paron

So Chiara and I caught a combi up to Pueblo Paron (1 hr trip that goes up over 1000m). Then the hike began, which theoretically takes 4-5 hours, and climbs 900m. We took 8 hours. Granted, we did go another hour than planned in order to find a nicer camp spot, and we had two long snack/lunch breaks, but it hurt. The lake is about 4300m I think, and is so fantastic, and so worth the hike, but after 4 hours of joking [media hora[ (half an hour) we were getting tired. The whole trip is up this narrow river valley, and you don{t see the lake until the very end. The blue lake is surrounded by glaciers and snowcapped peaks. The only drawback, I would say, is that it has been artificially drained for safety, and power reasons, and so the lake is a lot lower than I expected. But still, we found a great campspot and set up shop. But because the sun goes down about 6 and is pretty much dark by 6:30, we had a quick dinner of instant noodles and corn soup, a quick (and cold) stargaze (which was FANTASTIC!! I haven{t seen stars that great since camping outback australia), we went to bed. Cold, uncomfortable bed. I swear I didn{t sleep at all, but I guess I must have at somepoint. We knew that the last combi out of Peublo Paron left at 2:20, so we planned to leave by 7am. At 6 we woke up, crawled out of the tent already dressed in all our glorious layers, to find the fly encrusted in ice. We ended up not leaving until 7:45, but by that time the sun had risen over a glacier between 2 peaks, and the instant warmth that sun brought was very welcome. It only took us 4 hours to get down. We had to wait an hour for the next combi to arrive, so played mastermind while the kids from the local school stared at us and asked us for money until their teacher shooed them back inside.

A fantastic journey. Lots of beauty.

Up and down No. 2 - well, mostly just down.- Intestinal infection. WARNING: unpleasant imagery follows

So up at Laguna paron, I felt as though I might be coming down with a cold. After getting back, I felt that I was getting a fever. That night it was full on. Crazy fever, and the tossing and turning and crazy dreams that come with, aches all over (but from sickness or carrying backpack and tent?), and many non pleasant trips to the bathroom. I had been planning to leave the next day, but not like this. The next day I spent completely in bed. I read the health section in my guidebook. I was convinced I had either malaria or dengue fever (a little information is a dangerous thing:) The caretaker of the hostal came in bring back clothes that had done watching, and from that point I had a little Peruvian mother. She felt my head and stomach, arranged to take me to a privat clinic, where after a checkup was told that I had an intestinal infection, probably due to the fact that I, lets see, 1) eat fruit sometimes without washing, boiling, or peeling, 2) brush with local water, 3) eat sketchier food than necessary, 4) rarely wash my hands before eating. I guess I had figured that seeing as during my 6 months in SE Asia, I had only had 2 off days, I had pretty decent intestinal fortitude. Well, on the 12 days of this trip, I have only had 1 day where I HAVEN^,T felt at least a little off. So the night after my trip to the doctor and the pharmacy to get some drugs, I slept decent, probably from sheer exhaustion. The next day was filled with more trips to the washroom, with the addition of dryheaving, since it{s hard to throw up when you haven{t really eaten anything. Last night I actually threw up a bit, after I had drank some water. The whole day wasn{t horrible, but the night was, and I must had a fitful sleep with my head half over the edge of the bed over a bucket. At somepoint I fell asleep solidly, and woke up at 1pm today. My Peruvian mom made me banana crepes. She is always keeping on me to take my [pastilles[ and to dress warmly when I go out because it{s [frillo[. A bit tough as she speaks no english. Anyways, this afternoon I have felt pretty good. Watched a lot of english TV, as I havne{t spoken english in about a week and am missing being understood, or understanding for that matter. [Mama[ is making me tomato soup for when I get back. My plan is to leave tomorrow, based on how tonight goes.... I don{t want another night half spent on the toilet with my head over a bucket.

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