Thursday, September 21, 2006

all better

So I left Caraz the next morning, as I was feeling much better and took off to Carhuaz, another small town on the way to the city (Huaraz). I was heading to a nice place in the country, a bit out of my normal price range, but it was fantastic. I waited an hour outside their front gates as they didn't hear my knocking, and they weren't expecting anyone as my e-mail went to the wrong address, but once in I was in a relaxing oasis. The place is run by Pocha, who bought the land over 25 years ago and built everything herself with her son. Also living there is Patricia, an anthropologist originally from Boston who moved there 20 years ago. She does field work, some consulting, and teaches at universities in Huaraz and Lima. Their ¨ranch¨is all powered by solar and wind power. Breakfast and dinner included made with fresh organic food from their gardens. Chickens, geese, turkeys and llamas wander around the property. Great views of the surrounding peaks. I was their only guest so it was quiet. My first full day there I hired a local guide they knew to take me horseback riding for the day. We climbed paths with those horses I could barely imaging climbing myself. It was incredible. It took about 2 hours to get to the viewpoint, which was absolutely stunning - all of the highest peaks in the Peruvian Andes in front of us. Our way down was steep, again very surprising what we could do with the horses. We went through a few villages, stopped to soak our feet in some bubbling hot springs, and eventually headed back. The day concluded with a sauna with Pocha and Pocha complete with soothing eucalyptus on the steamer. No matter how relaxing that was, though, my butt and legs would still be incredibly sore (and continue to be 2 days later).

The next day I walked down to the town, enjoyed lunch, visited the vibrant market, and had some icecream. Its fiesta time right now, so there are firecrackers going off all over the place, at all hours of the day. The first time I had heard them I was sick in bed in Caraz, and it sounded like someone was bowling on my roof. Back at the ranch I read a lot and enjoyed all the homemade food. It was a really great spot.

This morning we took off to Huaraz - Pocha and Patricia were catching a bus to Lima, and I was making my next stop, on the search for adventure. I haven't checked into a hostal yet, but I did find a Scotiabank branch. How random.

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